Chocolate Pecan Tart w/ Bourbon Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream

  

Ingredients:

Pâte Sucrée tart crust - egg yolk, unsalted butter, sugar, all-purpose flour, kosher salt

Filling - toasted chopped pecans, whole raw pecans, vanilla bean, unsalted butter, sugar, dark and light corn syrup, kosher salt, eggs, dark chocolate

Whipped Cream - Bulleit Bourbon, crème fraîche, heavy cream

* * *

Happy Thanksgiving! As usual, Bon Appétit Magazine never fails me. Inspired by the beautiful photograph of this tart in the November issue, I thought I'd take a stab at this recipe for dessert this year - it turned out just as delicious as it looks. Not a recipe for the faint of heart, as it took a few hours (not including chilling time), but worth the effort. It was the perfect finish to a great Thanksgiving meal and upstaged my pumpkin pie this year.

This was my first venture into tart territory and was a bit nervous having to work with a different crust entirely from pie crust, and then nerve wrackingly un-molding it from the outer scallop tart mold. I compared a few recipes for the pate sucree, a sweetened, cookier version of a pie crust. This dough is more crumbly, less flaky, and would also be great for thumbprint or sugar cookies. The only difference with this, is the addition of sugar and egg yolks, but some recipes also add milk or cream. I used Alice Waters's recipe for this tart, as she's my go-to guru for all things food; she suggested using ice cold water as the combining agent for the dough. The tricky part is always rolling out the dough (after chilling overnight); I needed to add a bit more water and work the dough for a few minutes with my hands to reactivate the gluten just slightly, so it could be more malleable when rolling out - otherwise it would've just crumbled into a pile of flour on my board.

I then chopped and toasted/roasted some raw pecans in the oven for about 10 minutes, although it could've gone a bit longer. Remember to chop these pieces up fairly small, as they will line the bottom of the tart. A food processor would be great to use at this step - I wish I used one! While these are in the oven, chop up the dark chocolate into really small, irregular pieces. Don't use the food processor for the chocolate, as it will cause the chocolate to form into little round balls, which don't melt as nicely once baked. 

 

While the chopped pecans were cooling, I started working on the (very sugary) filling. The mixer did all the work; you first combine the sugar (I reduced this to 1/2 cup instead of 1 whole cup) and both corn syrups, then the eggs and salt. Using the whisk attachment folded a lot of air into this mixture, allowing it to be silky and creamy and easy to pour.

When assembling the tart the dry ingredients are arranged first, with the chopped pecans at the bottom of the unbaked tart shell (no blind baking for this one), then sprinkling the chopped chocolate for the second layer. The fun part is arranging the whole raw pecans in concentric circles over the top of the chocolate layer, giving way to a decorative and festive presentation. (This is a good step to get your kids involved in!)

  

After the whole pecans are placed, transfer the tart onto your baking sheet and carefully pour the sugar/corn syrup mixture evenly over all the pecans, until the tart shell is filled. I would work as nearest to your oven as possible at this step, so you won't have to carry a filled tart shell across the kitchen! Carefully transfer into the preheated oven, with the rack in the middle. After about 50 minutes or so, you can check on the tart to see if the filling has set yet. My trick is to just pull out the rack, and if the filling jiggles too much, it's not done yet. It will be firm to touch and the top will be a nice light golden brown.

Serve with some chilled Bourbon Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream, which goes perfectly with the tart (no sugar in the cream, so it balances nicely). This is also great for breakfast the next morning, with some coffee - if there's any left over.

Pumpkin Spice Bundt Cake w/ Buttermilk Icing

 

Ingredients: unsalted butter, all-purpose flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, allspice, salt, canned pumpkin, buttermilk, vanilla extract, granulated sugar, confectioner's sugar, eggs

* * *

I've made this cake at least a few times now and it's a hit every time. It's by far, my favorite cake for fall and gets you in the perfect mood for Thanksgiving. It's pumpkin-y, cinnamon-y, and all things great. The cake is very dense and so yummy with pretty much anything warm to drink (coffee, tea, mulled wine, apple cider, whiskey, etc.).  It is very easy if you're confident with your baking skills; it's just a multi-step process that yields a longer prep time - but it's worth it!

I've done variants on the icing/frosting - once with a cream cheese whipped frosting and this time, with a thinner buttermilk icing. Both are great, depending on the occasion. Icing the cake with the buttermilk icing is more dramatic, but can be very messy (although the icing hardens slightly after about 10 minutes). The cream cheese frosting makes for a much richer cake; perfect for birthdays. 

Find the recipe here, at epicurious.com.

Winter Carrot-Apple Soup

Ingredients: medium-large carrots, fuji apple, garlic, vegetable stock, nutmeg, allspice, kosher salt, black pepper

* * *

Allspice is possibly my favorite dry spice for the fall/winter season; it makes everything more earthy, fragrant, and savory all at the same time. I wish I came up with this allspice/soup pairing all on my own, but I was browsing epicurious.com for a different rendition of a carrot soup and stumbled upon this one.

I altered it slightly (omitted the apple juice concentrate and fresh mint, added garlic) and was pretty happy with it. The soup is incredibly filling and hearty and perfect if you're nursing a cold. The carrot and apple pairing makes the soup nice and thick, with a subtle hint of sweetness that balances perfectly with the nutmeg and allspice. Using the organic fresh produce definitely helped add to the sweetness, texture, and color of the soup; for some reason, non-organic carrots render dark yellow and watery soups for me - not sure if anyone else has had this problem.

It's served best with some raw apples and carrots which help add texture and crunch to the soup; also good topped with freshly grated parmesan or some garlic croutons. 

 

Chomping Ground // Chichen Itza: Agua de Chaya

Chichen Itza Restaurant

(inside the Mercado La Paloma)

3655 S. Grand Ave.

Los Angeles, CA 90007

http://www.chichenitzarestaurant.com/

* * *

I wanted to share the most incredible drink that I tried over the summer that I've never heard of before. Chichen Itza is the only restaurant that I've ever seen this drink, derived from the Chaya plant that is native to Mexico and Central America. Chaya, also known as "tree spinach" was a main staple of the Mayan diet, which can be juiced and strained to make a very refreshing and nutritious juice. I would say the flavor is much less potent than spinach; it's a leafy green that is as versatile as spinach, but the flavor is sweeter and less bitter than spinach. It has the most interesting citrus flavor, reminiscent of orange zest and lime juice. It's a little hard to explain, but the best drink I could compare it to is a natural version of good, old fashioned Sunny Delight. 

Chaya plant
© Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization, 2009 

I don't think I've ever found a market that sells fresh Chaya, so if anyone knows where I can get it, please share! Otherwise, it's definitely worth the trek over to USC as the food at Chichen Itza is some of the best Mayan food I've ever tasted. It would be unfair to compare this to Mexican food, because it's on a completely different flavor level than other contemporary Mexican food truck, stand, cantina, or restaurant you find around town. And if not for the food, the Agua de Chaya is worth it alone! 

Frozen Peanut Butter Pie w/ Coconut Cream

  

Ingredients: organic unsalted peanut butter, organic silken tofu, chocolate wafer cookies, unsalted butter, coconut milk (canned), powdered sugar, unsweetened cocoa powder, milk chocolate shavings

* * *

My best friend has a newborn at home and in my attempt to provide a sweet escape for the new mom, I also wanted to give something baby-friendly. I knew that dairy-free foods helped with preventing colic for nursing babies, so I was up for the challenge of making a sweet dessert for a happy mom and a gas-free baby. 

The peanut butter + chocolate combo is a favorite in her household, which provided further inspiration for the pie. I was on the hunt for vegan peanut butter pie recipes when I stumbled upon a very non-vegan Oreo pie crust which I knew would make a perfect combo. I removed the fillings from the Oreos and tossed the cookies in the food processor and made about 1 1/2 cups of chocolaty crumbs. The melted butter was added and the mixture was fluffed with a fork and pressed in a well-grease pie mold. Freeze to set for about 30 mins.

The frozen pie filling was genius: silken tofu was combined with a jar of peanut butter and combined in a blender. Most other peanut butter pies called for at least two packages of cream cheese, meant for consistency and flavor. But the use of tofu yielded a lighter, smoother consistency of the filling and you honestly couldn't taste the tofu whatsoever as the peanut butter overwhelmed the flavor completely.

The cream topping was a first for me as well; I've never made whipped cream without using cream. Using a hand blender and (very) cold canned coconut milk, it puffed up in no time and worked perfectly. It was very necessary to add powdered sugar, to taste; some of the other recipes called for some vanilla extract or other flavors, but the coconut is quite strong, so adding anything else might have clashed. I was worried the peanut butter wouldn't work with the coconut whipped cream, but it actually surprised me and went well together.

One thing to note, however, is that the pie tasted better once the whipped topping froze completely, along with the rest of the pie. On a hot day, you should allow the whole pie to set in the freezer for at least 3-4 hours. Top with shaved dark chocolate and serve!

Basil Pesto Capellini

Ingredients: Capellini pasta, fresh organic basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan cheese, extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt

* * *

My parents' garden has been overrun by beautiful basil this summer and they generously gave me huge bunches recently. Worried it would spoil too soon in this insanely humid heat we are having in Los Angeles, I quickly threw together a pesto. I've done a pesto in two different ways before, but for a quick and simple lunch, my food processor did the trick.

The key to a great pesto is really fresh, high quality ingredients. Since you're not cooking any of it (barely), the flavor of the raw basil really needs to shine. The other key to a great pesto is freshly toasted pine nuts which I gently toast in a sauce pan on the stove (a friend in Berkeley swore by roasting the pine nuts first in the oven on a baking sheet before putting it into his food processor).

This pesto is great with any pasta, really. But I was in the mood for a light Capellini, almost like Angel Hair, but a bit thicker. As with Angel Hair, it's necessary to half-cook the Capellini in boiling water and finish it in the saucepan with a bit of the pasta water and a dollop of the pesto. 

Apple + Ruby Pluot Pie / KCRW Good Food Pie Contest

 

 Ingredients

Pie crust: all-purpose flour, unsalted sweet cream butter, vegetable shortening, ice water

Filling: Granny Smith apples, Ruby pluots, vanilla bean, cornstarch, brown sugar, cane sugar, cinnamon

* * *

A good friend told me about this year's KCRW Good Food Pie Contest a couple weeks ago and immediately I was propelled into full pie mode.

Everyone knows that the key to a good pie is the crust, so my main focus was perfecting the right balance of ingredients and method(s) for the perfect dough. I was still undecided on the filling up to the last minute, having gone to the farmer's market the day before to gather inspiration for the filling. Apples are of course appearing all over the market, with stone fruit season just starting to come to an end. All of the plums, peaches, and pluots were looking overly ripe and sweet, so I wanted to take advantage of them while it lasted. After a few taste tests, I opted for the pluots - a beautifully sweet stone fruit which is a blend of a plum and an apricot with a smooth skin and a tangy finish. The flesh is heartier than a plum, but juicer than an apricot, with a small, pale-colored stone/seed of an apricot.

I won't give away the secret to my crust, but the main thing to remember is cold, cold, cold ingredients! Of course, it's best to set the dough in the fridge and chill it for 2-12 hours before rolling it out, chilling it once more after you've placed it in your pie mold. I stuck to the glass Pyrex molds which yield a more evenly baked crust, especially on the bottom crust which needed to stay put underneath a fruity filling. I also found that artisinal ingredients are the best way to go, changing up my butter for those fancy European butters (in the gold foil!) that go for a pretty penny. In times of competition (and when you want your pie to shine), this butter is the way to go. The crust was incredibly fragrant and flaky and complimented the sweet, cinnamon-y tang of the filling perfectly.

I sampled several apples and pluots at the farmer's market, looking for the perfect balance of  both the flavors. I opted for a very tangy, low-starch, juicy green apple (the exact variety I forget) with a very sweet Ruby pluot (which tasted like a watermelon Jolly Rancher). I hate apples that turn mealy and flavorless upon cooking and no one wants a mushy piece of pluot - so tasting them raw was key to finding the great combo.

It's important to peel the apples first, slicing them about 1/4" thick and kept them in cold water until I was ready to combine with the pluots (to prevent browning). I was almost going to skin the pluots as well, but seeing that they were so ripe, I kept the skins on so they would keep their shape and provide a bit of color to the filling. Combining all the ingredients for the filling, I allowed it to set while I rolled out the crust, letting all the flavors and juices meld together. Cornstarch is a key ingredient for the filling, which prevents it from becoming super watery! Other recipes and chefs suggest a quick-cook tapioca powder as a thickening agent, but I haven't tried this yet (think it would be good for a berry pie which tend to get super soggy). 

Pouring the filling into the pie mold, I dotted it with butter before I placed the top-crust over and sealed it off. I finished with an egg wash and a sprinkling of Turbinado sugar (which is brilliant when biting into the crust, for a sugary and crunchy texture).

Alas, my pie didn't win a blue ribbon this year, but loved serving it up to all the tasters who wanted a bite. The best part though, of course, was getting to taste everyone else's pies and trading baking/cooking tips with a bunch of L.A.'s finest home cooks. There were 278 entries this year and competition was stiff! See you next year...

The Buzz / Oakland: Doughnut Dolly

Courtesy Doughnut Dolly

482B 49th Street

Oakland, CA 94609

www.doughnutdolly.com

* * *

Temescal is a buzz with a new doughnut shop in town. Wish I was still there to try it. It's nestled in the little back alley behind Bakesale Betty and Pizzaiolo - pretty genius location with loads of foot traffic. It looks like a no-frills doughnut shop (with a charming modern interior) with your standard donut flavors but a gourmet twist, Oakland style.

Courtesy Doughnut Dolly

All the donuts are freshly baked, but filled-to-order with various custard cremes, jams, you name it - pumped and filled right in front of you. They look so messy and gooey and fun. The chef/owner is an Oakland native and named her shop after the WWI Salvation Army girls who were deployed to the trenches to distribute donuts to the troops. 

Courtesy Salvation Army Archives

Blueberry Pie

"We urge you not to judge your fruit pies against the picture-perfect specimens shown in magazine photographs. Under real home conditions, fruit pies often bubble over during baking, brown unevenly, stick to the pan, and yield somewhat runny slices...

None of this should deter you. Fruit pies are simple, homey desserts, mean for eating, not display. And they are indeed delicious."  

                                                                                                                              - The Joy of Cooking

* * *

Ingredients: organic fresh blueberries, lemon juice, lemon zest, cornstarch, sugar, all-purpose flour, unsalted butter, kosher salt, ice water

* * *

I was in the mood to make a summer pie the other day and thought I'd make my favorite: blueberry. It came out so perfect, slightly tangy, lemon-y and incredibly fragrant. The key is to use a fruit that is in season and I wanted to take advantage of the summer, using some organic blueberries. You can also substitute any other seasonal fruit - other berries like raspberries, ollalieberries, boysenberries, or strawberries and of course peaches.

The first step was to make the pie crust from scratch, mixing together the flour and cold butter with a bit of ice cold water. I mistakenly added extra butter (about 4 tablespoons worth!) and thought I may have ruined the crust, but it actually made it slightly flakier and tastier! It's important to chill and set the dough for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. I left it in the fridge over night and went to work the next morning.  I left the dough out for about 10 minutes before I started to roll it out. The key is to work from the center out.

I learned with this crust that it's best to pad out and tap the areas that begin to crack along the edges, as I rolled it out. It's just like play-doh or clay, very malleable and pretty easy to work with. Just make sure your rolling surface and pin are well-floured. The dough recipe I got from Alice Waters yielded enough dough to make the bottom crust and top crust. Rolling out the bottom crust, I laid it gently in my pie mold (the one I have is a fluted stoneware/ceramic) and tucked the crust around the lip of the mold. It's necessary to chill it and keep it in the fridge at this point while working on the filling. Same goes for the top crust.

The filling was incredibly simple and there was no cooking or heating involved! I just combined the fresh blueberries, sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice. It's also necessary to add a thickening agent to a berry pie filling. I had two resources that used either cornstarch or crushed quick-mix dry tapioca. For this recipe, I used cornstarch; 4 tablespoons per 6 cups of berries.

Pour the filling in the chilled pie mold, drape the top crust over, and fold/pinch the crusts together. To "seal" the crusts a bit more, I dampened the bottom crust around the rim with some water before placing the top crust on top. I then cinched it with a fork all around, finishing off the top crust with an egg wash and sprinkled sugar. And of course, don't forget to cut your steam vents!

Make sure to situation your oven rack to the bottom third of the oven so the pie does not sit too close to the top (or it will burn miserably). I started off the cooking at 400 degrees F for the first 20 minutes, then reduced the heat to 350 degrees F and cooked for another 45-50 minutes. 

It's best served straight from the oven, piping hot! And of course, à la mode would make it even better.

The Buzz / Miracle Mile: Apollonia's Pizzeria

Hhhm... just heard the news that a new pizzeria is opening in Miracle Mile. I'm intrigued, with fingers crossed!

No word yet on the chef/owner or the opening date, but it's just east of La Brea.

Details above.

Watermelon Agua Fresca w/ Fresh Mint

 

Ingredients: seedless watermelon, fresh mint, water

* * *

YUMMYY. I'm a huge fan of agua frescas - of any flavor. Whenever I go to markets or mexican restaurants, I always order them and had always wanted to make them. It was so easy! Some friends were over for dinner and left me with a huge watermelon that served as inspiration. You will need a blender and a fine mesh strainer, or sieve, and a spatula (although a spoon would work just as well).

I chopped up the watermelon in 2-inch cubes and dropped them straight into the blender. I also had some leftover fresh mint and I threw in about three leaves, roughly chopped. I wanted just a hint of mint essence in the drink and thought too much would just be... too much. Just hit the BLEND button and give it a whir. It will get stuck a few times, so I had to stop the blender and shake it up a bit (holding on to the lid), but it will be completely liquefied in no time. It's really important to say that you don't need to add any sugar! If you are using seasonal fruits, there is absolutely no need for added sweetness - plus it would be too sugary to drink and not as fresca.

I set up my sieve over a small bowl and poured the watermelon/mint puree through, pushing it down with the spatula. The key is to get out all the chunky bits, making it as liquid-y as possible - I ran it through the sieve one more time (so twice in total). Make sure not to throw away the watermelon chunks that are leftover in the sieve! Set this aside and freeze it and you've got yourself a nice watermelon and mint granita.

At this point you just have pure watermelon juice, so you need to add some chilled, filtered water. I kept adding to the mixture, one cup at a time, to taste. The watermelon juice itself is too sweet, so the water is really necessary. My watermelon yielded about 4 cups of watermelon juice and I ended up adding 2 cups of water - so a 2:1 juice to water ratio.

Serve chilled, over ice with some mint garnish or even some freshly cut watermelon! (or spiked, with some gin...)

Cabbage Slaw w/ Green Apple + Jalapeno

 Ingredients: green cabbage, purple cabbage, green apple, jalapenos, apple cider vinegar, mayonnaise, salt/pepper

* * *

My 4th of July slaw. I always hated those super creamy, sopping wet slaws, but loved the kinds that were crunchy, refreshing, tangy, and went perfect with a pulled pork sandwich, ribs, or in burgers. I've been researching various recipes and threw this one together, sweating the cabbage first with the apple cider vinegar and salt. Letting this sit for about 30 minutes, allows it to wilt slightly and pulls any additional water out of the veggies (which you can then drain).

I love using apples in savory foods and think their flavor really transforms when you add salt and pepper to them. They add a really sugary and sweet dimension to the slaw and makes it taste even more summery. I was inspired to add raw jalapenos to this recipe, based on the great jalapeno slaw I had last night at Golden State (which went perfect with my burger!). It was very mildly spicy and wasn't completely overbearing.

The mayo was a bit tricky - there are some I know that absolutely hate the idea of mayonnaise, but I found it pretty necessary to use as a combiner which tied all the flavors and textures together. I used a pretty small amount, about two heaping spoonfuls per 2 1/2 lbs. of the cabbage. I tested the slaw without the mayo and it was a bit dry and lackluster, although I know of several slaws that are vinaigrette-based that are excellent (but are more like a salad than a slaw...)

Highly recommend the pre-cut cabbage that comes in a bag to make your life easier! Although there are some coleslaws that look so elegant when the cabbage is cut in squares/cubes, rather than julienned. Some other variations and ingredients you could add: cilantro, lime, beets, carrots, orange zest, orange juice, dill, tarragon, mango..... endless.